Wednesday, 13 April 2011

HIX Ground Rib Steak Burger (2nd visit)

£15.75. Despite a seriously lacklustre bun and overcooked bacon, this burger STILL manages to be one of London's finest. Truly remarkable!

I first tried a HIX burger back in December last year (read that, the very first review to be posted on Burgerac, here) so in the interest of keeping things current, I thought I'd best give it another try...

In just a few months, the HIX burger has increased in price by 50p up to £15.75. Add to this a side order of chips at £3.95 and you've got a pricey burger outing on your hands. But, if you've eaten in HIX before, you'll know that yes, it's an expensive restaurant, but you get what you pay for: really great food in a relaxed setting...

OK - the burger comes thus - with a slice of gherkin, a cross section of red onion and an impressively enormous slice of beefsteak tomato. But, as you've probably noticed, the bun doesn't look great. It's got a crack in it. It's too dry.

Lifting up the top of the bun I can see it's had a good toasting – as have the three strips of bacon lurking underneath. Actually, they've had rather too much of a toasting: they're overdone and have become like thin pieces of wood that don't easily bite through. Things aren't looking too good. Still, not to be disheartened, I take a big swig of the HIX India Pale Ale I've ordered (which is insanely delicious AND they give you a tankard rather than a glass to drink it from which is simply awesome) I then add a few onion rings, the tomato and the slice of gherkin to the burger ensemble and cut through...

The great news is that cutting through the burger, you can tell how loosely packed and thick the grind of the patty is. Closer inspection reveals the cooking to be absolutely spot on medium rare - it's pink in the middle yet charred on the outside....

The above image is the last one I shot because I just couldn't do anything until I'd finished this absolutely incredible burger. Yes the bun was dry, crumbly and a complete travesty in that it lacked moisture, butteriness and any discernible flavour but, on the plus side, it did perform its functional duty rather well. It squashed down enough to be able to hold and eat it and it never actually fell apart. Sadly I had to remove the bacon and eat it separately because it just didn't bite as it should in a burger on account of its overdoneness. But these annoyances were rendered totally immaterial once I'd tasted the burger itself... The flavour... SO GOOD! It's been really heartily seasoned before hitting the grill so you get a big hit of charred salty goodness before discovering the intensely meaty flavour on the inside of the rib steak patty. 

Folks, I actually think that this is the best meat patty in London. If HIX would only invest a bit more love in sourcing a really great bun, and be a bit more thoughtful about the cooking of the accompanying bacon, then theirs would most probably be the best burger in London. Even as it stands, it's still very much worth checking out. As is the HIX own label beer. Yum.


66-70 Brewer Street

Tel: +44 (0) 20 7292 3518

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