£12.25 plus £3.50 for amazing fries. The Frenchie is (French) chef Daniel Boulud's ode to the American cheeseburger. C'est très très bon!
Well, it seemed rude to not give Bar Boulud's Frenchie Burger its own review, seeing as I've written up and rated the Knightsbridge bistro's other two burgers. And you'll never guess what? Just like the Yankee and the Piggie, the Frenchie burger is also a worthy recipient of 5-star Burgerac approval...
The last time I was at Bar Boulud, just last week, I was with a friend who I persuaded to let me order all three burgers. No, not just for me. So we could share them – which is a new one for me, as normally I hate the thought of sharing my food. Actually, the burgers aren't enormous in BB so sharing three between two here isn't as gut-bustingly greedy as it sounds...
Above is a section of our burger platter awaiting our attention. My thoughts on the Yankee and also the Piggie haven't changed since reviewing them. Nor have my views on the fries: they're still excellent. But on this visit to BB I was determined to focus all my attention on the Frenchie, of which I'd only previously sampled just one overpoweringly mustardy bite...
Like I said, morbier is one of my favourite cheeses. It hails from the Jura mountains on the eastern edge of France, as close as you can get to Switzerland without actually being in Switzerland. For me, its structure and taste is a perfect blend of Swiss and French sensibilites. It's got a bit of a pong, but actually has a really mild and nutty taste. Taking a bite of my Frenchie burger, I was delighted this time to be able to detect and savour its distinctly mellow flavour, which was balanced wonderfully with the sweet tomato-onion compote (rather like a classic onion marmalade) and the peppery twang of the rocket.
The above image shows the patty to be slightly more cooked than I would have liked but note the oozy morbier cheese and also the thin, delicate slices of the pork belly which acts as a kind of wonderful, soft and delicious bacon. Normally I would scoff at the idea of rocket in a burger, but with this particular blend of ingredients, its peppery flavour really works well. A touch of French mustard and the gently buttery brioche bun add to the burger's French-ness, and as I polish off the last morsel, I find myself wondering if I haven't gone and saved the best till last. The Frenchie is a French chef's ode to the New York burger. It's also an absolutely cracking dish. Félicitations!
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park
London SW1X 7LA
Call for opening times and bookings: Tel :020 7201 3899