The Russian owners of London's American-style steakhouse, Goodman, opened up their new restaurant in Mayfair just a week before Christmas. Called Burger & Lobster, there really are only those two things available to eat. £20 will buy you a burger (served with a silver cup of fries and a side salad) or a whole lobster (or a lobster roll). Naturally, I opted for the burger..
Situated just off Curzon Street in what used to be an Irish pub on Clarges Street, Burger & Lobster boasts a bar run by Soul Shakers – the same outfit that set up the bar at Meat Liquor. And, like Meat Liquor, it operates a no-booking policy, you just turn up and wait to be seated by the super-friendly front of house in the smart wood-paneled interior.
Once at your table, or sat at the bar, the menu is, in fact, a drinks menu. Well, when there are only three dishes to choose from consisting of either burger or lobster, there's really no need for a food menu. To drink, I ordered a pint of Sierra Nevada pale ale – something of a Burgerac favourite (they serve it in bottles in Byron). To find it here on tap was a joy!
The burgers are served on a great big tray (as above) and with good reason. They're considerably bigger than Goodman's excellent burger offering, each sporting a 180g patty (Goodman's patty is 150g) and the beef is ground on-site every day and served in freshly baked brioche buns with lettuce, a slice of tomato and some thin cut red onion slices. A silver cup of chips and a small remekin of sliced pickles and a ceramic bowl of dressed salad makes up the burger platter. Nice.
The chips are absolutely delicious, the pickles have a lovely mustard seed twang and the patty consists of super-heavenly beef - beef so good that I didn't mind one jot that my medium rare burger was bordering on steak tartare rareness in places.
The brioche bun is tasty and super fresh but really not quite strong enough see the eating through – although, to be fair, placing a juicy, rare, 180g beef patty directly onto the bottom part of any bun doesn't really give it much of a chance of maintaining its integrity. It is only this lack of consideration to the ensemble's architecture that stops me giving it five stars: it really is an excellent burger well worth seeking out.
I've heard the lobster roll is pretty special too so I'll be back soon to check that out. Important research, you understand.
Burger & Lobster
29 Clarges Street
London W1J 7EF
Tel: 020 7409 1699