Wednesday, 4 January 2012

Burger & Lobster: Burger with Bacon and Cheese

£20 buys you a big burger (cheese and bacon is optional at no extra cost), a silver bucket of chips and a side salad. Pricey but really good
The Russian owners of London's American-style steakhouse, Goodman, opened up their new restaurant in Mayfair just a week before Christmas. Called Burger & Lobster, there really are only those two things available to eat. £20 will buy you a burger (served with a silver cup of fries and a side salad) or a whole lobster (or a lobster roll). Naturally, I opted for the burger..

Situated just off Curzon Street in what used to be an Irish pub on Clarges Street, Burger & Lobster boasts a bar run by Soul Shakers – the same outfit that set up the bar at Meat Liquor. And, like Meat Liquor, it operates a no-booking policy, you just turn up and wait to be seated by the super-friendly front of house in the smart wood-paneled interior.

Once at your table, or sat at the bar, the menu is, in fact, a drinks menu. Well, when there are only three dishes to choose from consisting of either burger or lobster, there's really no need for a food menu. To drink, I ordered a pint of Sierra Nevada pale ale – something of a Burgerac favourite (they serve it in bottles in Byron). To find it here on tap was a joy!

The burgers are served on a great big tray (as above) and with good reason. They're considerably bigger than Goodman's excellent burger offering, each sporting a 180g patty (Goodman's patty is 150g) and the beef is ground on-site every day and served in freshly baked brioche buns with lettuce, a slice of tomato and some thin cut red onion slices. A silver cup of chips and a small remekin of sliced pickles and a ceramic bowl of dressed salad makes up the burger platter. Nice.

The chips are absolutely delicious, the pickles have a lovely mustard seed twang and the patty consists of super-heavenly beef - beef so good that I didn't mind one jot that my medium rare burger was bordering on steak tartare rareness in places.

The brioche bun is tasty and super fresh but really not quite strong enough see the eating through – although, to be fair, placing a juicy, rare, 180g beef patty directly onto the bottom part of any bun doesn't really give it much of a chance of maintaining its integrity. It is only this lack of consideration to the ensemble's architecture that stops me giving it five stars: it really is an excellent burger well worth seeking out. 

I've heard the lobster roll is pretty special too so I'll be back soon to check that out. Important research, you understand.


Burger & Lobster
29 Clarges Street
London W1J 7EF

Tel: 020 7409 1699

Burger & Lobster on Urbanspoon


Michael said...

Hmm. I was a bit surprised when I found out they are charging £20 for the burger.

The Minetta Tavern Black Label burger is renowned as expensive but totally worth it and costs approx £16. Could the same be said about this one?

Burgerac said...


Yup, at $26 NYC's Minetta Tavern Black Label Burger is expensive when compared to a Shake Shack burger or another fast food burger joint in the same city. When it comes down to it though, the difference in price reflects the quality and weight of the beef - and the relative swankiness of the environment in which it is served. Whether or not you think a more pricey than average burger (or anything else for that matter) represents good value is a totally personal thing and opinions will vary.

Personally, for £20 I'd rather the folks at L&B put as much love into the building of their burger as they do to the meat sourcing and patty preparation BUT the beef is sourced by the same peeps that source meat for Goodman (the most highly respected purveyors of steak in London? Quite possibly) and the quality of that beef, judging from my single L&B burger experience, is beyond question.

And so I guess you have to ask yourself if you're interested in comparing the prices of totally incomparable burgers - or considering whether you appreciate downing a slab of beautiful chopped steak betwixt two buns in a particular upmarket restaurant in a particular part of town - or not.

The fact is that different burgers suit different people / moods / occasions / tastes / levels of disposable income. Horses for courses as they say. Or perhaps in this particular instance, it’s more like burgers for Burghers?

Anonymous said...

Sounds like those eating burgers are subsidizing the lobster eaters!

Either way i will be trying one, most probably with a lobster roll apertif!


Big_Fat_Dan said...

A bit random, but does anyone know where and can get some of those Silver cups (which holds the frys) i want to get some for home, Cheers.

Burgerac said...

@Big_Fat_Dan Much as I'd like to think the comments section of each of my blog posts was seen by millions, it's not actually the case. I'd definitely suggest you tweet your silver cup-finding question as I reckon you've a far greater chance of it being read by someone who might be able to help you than you have posting it here! Good luck!

Big_Fat_Dan said...

Thanks burgerac, i'll give it a whirl.

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