I've heard good things about the burger at Elliot's since it opened last year. As it's based on the edge of Borough Market and only serves burgers on weekday lunchtimes, it's not the most convenient place for me to check out - but taking a day off to find the perfect shoes to get married in provided a sneaky opportunity for me and a buddy to pop in for lunch...
Elliot's is a smart, small, glass-fronted, exposed-brick bistro and its burger has many fans. Now I've had one, I can see why: it's mind-meltingly awesome and, Elliot's Brett Redman tells me proudly, "every single last thing is made in-house".
Elliot's mince and press its beef patties themselves, incorporating aged rib-eye caps and fresher shin, shoulder or flank to perfectly balance the flavours of beefiness and age, always aiming for an 80/20 meat-to-fat ratio.
Beer-braised onions and Comté cheese give the burger a decidedly French je ne sais quoi and the wonderfully soft, slightly sweet buns are, yes, that's right, baked in-house in, Brett explains "a brioche / pain de mie style but using olive oil instead of butter."Hot damn, the buns are delicious, soft, yet sturdy.
The burger is served (see top-most image) with discs of fried potato (Elliot's gave up serving shoestring fries about six months ago as they were tricky to perfect each time) along with a splat of homemade mayo and another of rich, clovey tomato ketchup. The potato slabs were nice enough, although, truth-be-told, I'd rather have French fries any day of the week.
Uniquely and intriguingly, discs of sweet pickled cucumber are served skinless (again, refer to the topmost image), which removes crunch. While at first I thought this was bizarre, it made perfect sense when you add them to the burger and understand that part of the joy here is the soft squishy texture of the ensemble, as well as the unusually deep flavour of the beef patty. If only Elliot's served its burgers all the time!
12 Stoney Street
London SE1 9AD
Tel: 020 7403 7436
Post Script: Well, I might as well show you the shoes I bought the day I ate at Elliot's. Made by the super talented Mr Hare who is soon to open his very first shop, in Mayfair no less. Marc Hare, I salute you and all you stand for. These shoes WERE the perfect wedding shoes! See more at www.mrhare.co.uk.