Another week, another new burger joint opens in the centre of London. This week it's the turn of Beirut burger joint BRGR.CO which promises a "brgrlicious experience". It fails to deliver…
The scent of burger-generated cash wafts from London across oceans to lure burger-based businesses to come and get involved. Reading about their immenent opening a few weeks ago I wondered if the BRGR.CO crew had done their homework and were going to offer something on a par with its central London burger-vending neighbours, namely Lucky Chip, MEATliquor, Honest, and Patty & Bun. Now I've been, I know categorically, that they haven't and furthermore that they don't.
I ordered a few things - the delightful sounding Crispy Buttermilk Onion Stack, some coleslaw and a 6oz Tender Blend burger, "a phenomenal blend of the most tender beef cuts served medium rare to medium to preserve the juiciness and the flavour," according to the menu. I added some vintage cheddar, rumoured to be Keen's (a personal favourite) which brought the total cost of the burger up to £7.90. The burger arrived thus:
Yes, it's impressively flat. Sadly, so was its flavour profile. The meat was indeed cooked medium rare to my specification but it was bland beyond belief. If I had anything to do with the Duke of Buccleuch's estate in Scotland (named on the menu as the beef suppliers to the joint) I'd quickly request the removal of the estate's name from all BRGR.CO literature.
The cheese wasn't Keen's wonderful earthy cheddar but a bland alternative that offered nothing other than an unwelcome challenge to separate the top of the bun from it to add the lettuce, tomato, red onion rings and pickles (which were served on the side) to the burger. The bun itself looked like it might be of the rich buttery glazed brioche variety but was actually a thin, limp, crappy piece of chemistry that bore no resemblance to bread at all. Here's a look at the bottom of the bun:
The coleslaw I ordered never turned up and the onion rings, whilst looking interesting were soft and fluffy instead of being crisp and tasty. They tasted of nothing. Not even onion. Not even salt. Nothing at all.
The only thing with any real flavour were the Parmesan Truffle Fries (£3.85). A bowl of fries came sprinkled with tasty, salty parmesan. However, it soon transpired that they were soaking in a what seemed to be a cheesy custard. There was no detectable truffle flavour. Hardly the "elegant take on an old standard" described on the menu.
I'm not going to waste any more time writing about this abomination – other than to say that all the staff I encountered were absolutely delightful - polite, smiley, and helpful. But sorry, that doesn't make up for the fact that BRGR.CO seems to have dropped proper flavour just like it's dropped the vowels from it's name. This dude most definitely does not abide.
187 Wardour Street
London W1F 8ZB