Chef Carl Clarke's Disco Bistro has popped up again, this time to provide the grub at Skate King's Cross - a roller disco pop-up in a warehouse behind King's Cross next door to the Central Saint Martins site, just across the canal from KERB's KX pitch.
It's only around for eight weeks so don't be shy - get down there pronto because the burger being served is the best damn burger I've had for quite some time. And the wings... Oh, man...
I had the "sticky" wings (shown here) rather than the hot ones - but on the strength of how good these are, order both!
The burger itself is rare breed patty adorned with a thick wodge of REAL cheese, pickled onions and a totally amazing pineapple bacon jam – all housed in the most perfect seeded brioche bun you could imagine. It comes served, thus:
And boy-oh-boy is it good. In the words of chef Carl Clarke, the man-genius who created it, the patty is made from "hand-picked pieces of rare-breed beef aged up to 35 days. We choose the heaviest marbled pieces of brisket tips, ribs and chuck with a meat to fat ratio of 70 to 20 with the remaining 10% made up of bone marrow for extra juiciness."
The buns are indeed a full-on brioche but made with a "24 hour yeast starter", says Clarke, which gives them extra springiness. The bacon and pineapple jam provides salty sweetness and so the burger sauce is sharper than that which accompanied previously conceived DB burgers. It's made up of mayo, worcestershire sauce, dijon mustard and tabasco to add tanginess and a gently heat to the ensemble. The pickled onions, meanwhile add a vinegary twang and a generous slice of melted mature cheddar cheese provides yet more umami joy.
BOOM! This knocks the sesame seeds off Shake Shack and Five Guys' fare, showing up their arrival to London's burger party as late if not a little pointless. It deliciously demonstrates that we Brits are fuelling our own 'posh burger' culture that has moved some way beyond fast-food influences. Here is a burger that gloriously abandons its US roots in favour of functioning as a vehicle for delivering the best of British. Bravo!
And it's not just the amazing wings and burgers that you need to know about down at Skate Kings Cross. There are cocktails, hard-shakes AND Meantime lager and pale ale to boot.
Talking of boots, YOU CAN ROLLER SKATE while AWESOME DJs (including Disco Bloodbath's Damon Martin, Hannah Holland, Thomas Bullock of Rub'n'Tug, Chris Woodward from Buzzin' Fly and more) ROCK THE PARTY (on Friday and Saturday nights) over an impressive warehouse-appropriate sound system.
In short: Skate King's Cross is totally awesome. My advice: enjoy it while you can – and let's hope it becomes a summer institution in much the same way as the winter ice skating rink has down at Somerset House!
Disco Bistro N1C
Skate King's Cross
West Handyside Canopy